Corton Charlemagne is one of the great white Grand Crus of Burgundy, located on the hill of Corton between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. Here Chardonnay finds one of its noblest expressions thanks to limestone and marl-clay soils, ideal exposures and a continental climate. We follow Vinogodi between medieval history, legends related to Charlemagne and interpretations of legendary producers.
The appellation Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is located almost on the border between Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, on the slopes of the hill of Corton, between 280 and 330 meters above sea level. Most of the vineyards have a southwest exposure, an ideal condition for balanced ripening of Chardonnay.
The terroir alternates between forests and vineyards, creating a unique landscape. The soils consist mainly of limestone, marl, clay and gypsum, with the presence of crystalline sands and gravels on the surface. This composition allows good water retention and promotes the production of wines with great structure and depth.
The legend of Charlemagne
The history of Corton-Charlemagne is lost in the Middle Ages and, as is often the case in Burgundy, intertwined with legend. It is reported that Charlemagne, a great lover of the wines of the area and owner of a vineyard on the hill of Corton, stained his long, now graying beard with the red wines then produced on the hill. His wife Liutgarde allegedly insisted that he drink white wine because those stains did not befit his rank. According to tradition, the emperor then allegedly ordered that red grape varieties be replaced with white ones.
Beyond the legend, it is certain that the viticultural development of the area was strongly influenced by the Cistercian monks, who helped define the style of wines in the area.
And we come to the tastings
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2016 Louis Latour
Score: 95/100
Average price: € 400
100% Chardonnay. 8-10 months in French oak barrels, with moderate proportion of new wood.
Pale golden yellow color, clear and bright, with greenish highlights. The nose is elegant and multifaceted, with notes of citrus tart, lime and cedar. The palate is sharp but harmonious, supported by an important structure and accompanying minerality on the finish.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2021 Domaine Roumier
Score: 97/100
Average price: € 1.000
100% Chardonnay. About 12 months in mostly used French oak barrels.
Golden yellow. The nose, despite its youth, is articulated on notes of exotic fruit, Sicilian citrus, hawthorn and white pepper. In the mouth it is energetic and vibrant, with acid tension in its youthful boldness, remarkable depth and length.
A surprising debut for one of Chambolle-Musigny’s most celebrated interpreters of Pinot Noir: it is the only white wine produced by the estate.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1989 Bonneau du Martray
Score: 96/100
Average price: € 500
100% Chardonnay. About 12 months in mostly used French oak fût.
Deep golden. The bouquet shows tertiary notes but no signs of oxidation. Ripe fruit, jammy white peach, wildflower honey and tropical suggestions. In the mouth it is soft, complex and deeply enveloping.
Masterful example of the extraordinary aging capacity of this Grand Cru.
Score: 99/100
Average price: € 5.500
100% Chardonnay. About 18 months in French oak barrels, with calibrated use of new wood.
Brilliant gold color perfectly intact. The nose is complex and layered: pyrrhic notes typical of the producer, exotic fruit, papaya, propolis and sweet spices with balsamic hints. The palate is very broad, powerful and deeply persistent.
One of the absolute pinnacles of world Chardonnay. We are in Olympus, with a jewel-wine from the greatest white wine vigneron in existence. His entire philosophy is here, including his state of grace after decades of aging. Hard to drink anything else white after this glass….
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1994 Coche-Dury
Score: 99/100
Average price: 6.500 €
100% Chardonnay. About 18 months in French oak barrels.
Intense and bright gold, almost topaz. The nose is of extraordinary complexity: white flowers, white currants, dried fruit, candied lemon peel and balsamic notes in a spicy context. The palate is solemn, broad and velvety, with impressive persistence.
I had purchased three bottles of this vintage for my daughter’s birth and opened the first one on the occasion of her wedding two years ago- suffice it to say, it troubled those present.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007 Domaine Leroy
Score: 99/100
Average price: 11.000 €
100% Chardonnay. Approximately 15-18 months in French oak barrels, with significant proportion of new wood.
Deep gold and almost dense in the glass. The nose explodes in incense, oriental spices, rose petals, medicinal herbs and mentholated hints, light grapefruit with a long mineral trail. In the mouth it is powerful and enveloping, yet refined and sensual, with unique balance and elegance.
Separate chapter for this and the various Domaine Leroy white wines. An outsized wine, difficult to contextualize even among the world’s greatest whites. High price? Luckily I bought them at the right time directly in allotment from the then distributor.
