Corton, the giant with a thousand faces

Aloxe-Corton takes its additional name from its legendary Grand Cru, which has existed since 1862. The area it encompasses is quite “narrow”— Corton Rougehas carved out for itself: certainly not because of its nearly millennial history, nor for reasons of quantity, but because it is squeezed between the legend of one of the greatest white wines in existence, the Corton-Charlemagne, and the appeal of the Pinot Noirs of the Côte de Nuits, which today is overwhelming and almost overpowering.

The fact remains that the Corton hill is home to a group of Grands Crus of exceptional scope. AOC Corton alone now covers about 91 hectares in production, primarily planted with Pinot Noir, while Corton-Charlemagne occupies about 60 hectares. Red Corton may also bear the name of its climat of origin on the label: the appellation’s official list includes 26 climats and lieux-dits. This level of subdivision can be bewildering for enthusiasts who approach it without a detailed map at hand.
Given the vastness of the territory, there is also great topographic and geological variability, making it difficult to identify a common sensory denominator—a challenge further compounded by winemaking approaches that are at times unique, if not surprising.

Six Interpretations of Corton

Corton Grand Cru 2001 Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Score: 92/100
Average price: €120

100% Pinot Noir. Aged in wood for approximately 16–18 months; the proportion of new oak varies depending on the vintage.
Light red with some orange hues, extremely transparent. The aromas are light, with good variety and complexity, showing full yet perfectly balanced tertiary development: humus, wild honey mushrooms, light toasty notes, and refined leather. On the palate, it is graceful and smooth, without any harshness, yet extremely pleasant to drink.

Corton Grand Cru Clos du Roi 2005, Domaine de Montille

Score: 95/100
Average price: € 280

100% Pinot Noir. In barrels of 228 liters; the Domaine uses a significant proportion of whole clusters and a percentage of new oak that varies depending on the vintage.
A red wine of good intensity, though with garnet hues, and great clarity. It offers intoxicating aromas of cardamom, raspberries in jelly, and some earthy and spicy notes. On the palate, it has good body and very fine tannins which, together with a lovely, expressive acidity, create a noble wine with great character.

Corton Grand Cru Clos Rognet 2007 Domaine Méo-Camuzet

Score: 96/100
Average price: €225

100% Pinot Noir. Aged for a long time in barrels; this cru favors Bertranges oak and a significant proportion of new wood.
A red wine with beautiful color intensity despite its age. A delight with a rich bouquet, featuring red forest berries, leafy notes, cinnamon, and cloves. On the palate, it is intense and enveloping, smooth, and deeply sensuous.
Méo-Camuzet ranks among Burgundy’s famous “demigods.” Jean-Nicolas Méo also carried on the legacy of Henri Jayer, who served as a consultant to the estate. This wine is crafted with meticulous care.

Corton Grand Cru Cuvée du Bourdon 2009, Domaine Ponsot

Score: 96/100
Average price: €220

100% Pinot Noir. 18 months in fût French oak barrels, with no new wood.
Light ruby red. The nose is enhanced by fruity hints of cherry jam, with a spiciness reminiscent of mulled wine, along with notes of parched earth and bark. On the palate, it exhibits remarkable smoothness without ever becoming cloying; rather, it displays a velvety composure and density.
Another legendary name from Burgundy, idolized by critics and wine enthusiasts alike.

Corton Grand Cru Les Perrières 2013, Domaine Méo-Camuzet

Score: 96/100
Average price: €200

100% Pinot Noir. Aged for about 17 months in barrels , mostly new oak with a small proportion of barriques.
A red wine with excellent intensity and color concentration. The bouquet is complex and intense: mineral, almost like a great Puligny white; it stands out for its delightful notes of wild strawberry jelly, cinnamon, blond tobacco, and wet flint. On the palate, it displays breadth and structure against a backdrop of exemplary freshness.
Another gem from the great Méo. Made from grapes grown north of Aloxe-Corton on gravelly soil, hence the name “Perrières,” meaning “stones.”

Corton Grand Cru Les Renardes 2002, Domaine Leroy

Score: 98/100
Average price: €5,000

100% Pinot Noir. Aged in oak barrels; produced by the Domaine using biodynamic viticulture and extremely low yields.
A diaphanous, dreamy red color. The olfactory symphony is almost like a classical music score, with extremely high notes in both quality and intensity. Balsamic note immediately takes center stage, unfolding into nuances of currant and pomegranate jams and jellies. The spicy finish is exceptional. The palate, seemingly light-bodied, possesses an unimaginable capacity to fill the mouth, with velvety texture and acidity balancing each other seamlessly. Endless persistence…
Produced from a small plot of about half a hectare, with about a thousand bottles produced.