Between Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet are born some of Burgundy’s most celebrated Grand Crus. From the legend that gave rise to their names to the extraordinary longevity of the wines, a journey between Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet through seven memorable bottles. We continue with Vinogodi‘s incredible tastings.
A legend at the origin of Grand Cru
The history of the names of the Grand Cru of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet (repeating what has been written before: Chevalier-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet) is lost to the centuries. The best-known version, popularized in the early twentieth century by Jacques Prieur and Vincent Leflaive, belongs more to legend than to history.
It is said that the lord of Puligny, left without his only son, the Chevalier, who died during the Crusades, had by a young woman an illegitimate son, the Bâtard. When the child was recognized, the people flocked to the castle to welcome him, “Bienvenue au Bâtard“. The gentleman’s emotion would have been such that he would have wept: hence the name Criots.
In tradition, then, Montrachet represents the father, Chevalier-Montrachet the deceased legitimate son, and Bâtard-Montrachet the natural son.
Between Puligny and Chassagne, on limestone rock.
Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet form the trait d’union between Puligny and Chassagne, divided almost equally between the two communes. Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, the smallest of the four, on the other hand, belongs entirely to Chassagne-Montrachet.
Uniting them is above all the terroir: poor soils, rich in limestone rock, in which the roots of the vines penetrate deep in search of nourishment, giving rise to wines of extraordinary minerality and complexity.
Monumental wines with extraordinary longevity
Needless to mention the level of quality which reaches its highest expressions here, the description of the glasses will be much more meaningful. The longevity takes on legendary dimensions. Unfortunately, the very limited production and the spasmodic search of the world of wine connoisseurs have made these bottles increasingly rare and somewhat out of scale in price…but with patience and a little effort, perhaps by consorting with friends, nothing is impossible.
Seven author’s interpretations
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 1999 Olivier Leflaive
Score: 95/100
Average price: € 500,00
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique, followed by several months in steel before bottling.
Deep gold. Aromas of ripe fruit, yellow plum jam and candied orange peel. The palate is soft, round and perfectly evolved, with great harmony and absence of edge.
Produced in confidential quantities (about 600 bottles), it is yet another example of how positively these wines can evolve over the years in exceptional vintages.
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2012 Domaine Ramonet
Score: 96/100
Average price: € 950,00
100% Chardonnay. 1 2-14 months in barrels, 20-25% new.
Bright and luminous gold. The nose surprises with initial notes of propolis, then refined scents of freshly cut flowers, ripe pear and medicinal herbs emerge. The sip is broad, structured, enveloping and supported by marked savoriness.
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2007 Domaine Leflaive
Score: 97/100
Average price: € 1.100,00
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique on fine lees, followed by 10 months in steel on fine lees.
Intense yellow with still greenish hues. Nose of great minerality, with “rocky” hints and outline of exotic fruit and balsamic accents. Mouthfeel of great acid tension, elegant and balanced, with remarkable persistence.
Rarely does Domaine Leflaive miss a beat, but when it comes to Grand Crus it produces wines that are almost cathartic and unique.
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2012 Etienne Sauzet
Score: 96/100
Average price: € 800,00
100% Chardonnay. About 12 months in barrels, partly new.
Golden color and still youthful. Citrusy aromas accompanied by notes of walnut husk, honey and sweet spices. The taste is rich but always measured, balanced in its powerful structure and with a firm finish.
Known for the finesse of his wines, Etienne Sauzet seems to be going down unusual paths with this wine.
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2004 Domaine Ramonet
Score: 96/100
Average price: € 1.300,00
100% Chardonnay. 12-14 months in barrels, 20-25% new.
Intense and luminous gold. The aromas abandon the cliché typical of the maison to rest sensually on notes of tropical fruit, acacia honey, cinnamon and propolis, with a progressive evolution towards balsamic nuances. Mouthfeel very broad, tenacious and powerful, with great depth.
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2004 Domaine Leflaive
Score: 97/100
Average price: € 1.200,00
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique on fine lees, followed by 10 months in steel on fine lees.
Almost magical to the eyes is the lustrous gold color. Wide olfactory range with notes of flint, ripe apple, butter, dried flowers and a delicious vanilla touch. In the mouth it is dense and enveloping, broad and soft, supported by exceptional freshness and a very long persistence.
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 1999 Domaine Leflaive
Score: 98/100
Average price: € 1.700,00
100% Chardonnay. 12 months in barrique on fine lees, followed by 10 months in steel on fine lees.
Full, intact gold. The aromas are enriched with spicy notes, then exotic fruit, wildflower honey and a very appealing characteristic pyrrhic note. The sip is velvety and caressing, but still retains extraordinary energy, momentum and depth.
Wonderful to see how this extraordinary wine evolves in an exceptional vintage.
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