Il Vassallo, historical vertical at Colle Picchioni

There are events that you have immediately decided to attend and whose approach causes you a pleasant state of excitement. Excitement of a true wine-maniac! But in this case it is not the sick fruit of a pathology, but rather the sweet, ripe fruit of the thousands of stories Daniele Cernilli told me about Paola Di Mauro, the historic founder of Colle Picchioni. That’s right, because Signora Paola had been a schoolmate of Daniele’s father and Daniele himself followed all the extraordinary oenological events for decades, as a close friend.

Almost epic tales, of this Lady who, looking for a buen retiro to escape the Roman heat, buys this land near Frascati, falls madly in love with it and decides to become a wine producer. But she decides, in a decisive local countertrend, to produce there. a Bordeaux-style red wine: Merlot (60 percent), Cabernet Sauvignon (20 percent), Cabernet Franc (20 percent). Before her, in the area, only Prince Boncompagni Ludovisi had tried, in his Tenuta di Fiorano. But he was precisely a Prince, he could. Would she, a perfect unknown and novice, have managed?

To this question, national wine history answers with a ringing yes.

The beginnings

It was not easy. But she,, a highly intelligent woman, always surrounded herself with very good winemakers: until 1995 the great Giorgio Grai, later also Riccardo Cotarella, who certainly needs no bombastic introduction.

Vigna del Vassallo historically is the result of the simultaneous vinification of a very specific vineyard. When we talk about the times that were and the percentages of the vines that made it up, you have to be tolerant of approximations. Over time, with the physiological replacements of old rootstocks, you gradually become more precise.

Even now, the Vassal (they can no longer use the term Vigna) is the result of the contemporary harvest of all that vineyard, but Valerio Di Mauro, grandson of grandmother Paola, told us that very shortly, because of the terrible climate change, they will begin to do separate harvests, vine by vine. It just is no longer possible to go on following that romantic tradition.

Even in the use of woods things have changed, and if you will, once again it has been done against the grain. As early as 2009 in fact, large barrels have been replaced by casks not too toasty and from various passages. Valerio doesn’t mind that elegant, whispery woody note at all, as long as he can make then aging wine in the bottle for a long time. That is why the release of the 2022 vintage has been postponed by one year (in 2026), and in the future, perhaps, this bottle aging will be extended further.

The effect of climate change on winemaking

Speaking of the blends that make up Vassallo, Valerio told us that in the past the share of Merlot often deliberately exceeded 60 percent. But now, again because of the damned climate warming, they are reducing it in favor of the two Cabernets. Of my own, I would add that even in Bolgheri and the Val di Cornia, for example, where Bordeaux blends dominate, the presence of Cabernet Franc is definitely increasing.

The vertical tasting

With this long preamble concluded, let us return to the beautiful event: a vertical of eight vintages of Vigna del Vassallo or Vassallo, from 1987 to 2021. The eight vintages were chosen by Valerio following his own internal calendar, in the sense of his own family and personal history. For after Mrs. Paola had passed the baton to her son. Armando, the time then came to pass the baton to Valerio himself, who has been at the helm of the family business since the 2006 vintage.

The tasting was led by the very talented Daniela Scrobogna, FIS lecturer and great connoisseur of the winery. Together with her and Valerio we analyzed each vintage, also coming to a choral conclusion: although it is a Bordeaux blend wine, the (volcanic) terroir is very much felt. Making it a wine completely different from its Italo-Bordeaux cousins, giving it quite different, unique olfactory taste imprints. That, together with the undisputed family skills, made it a real jewel of the territory and for the territory.

Having come to this point, all you have to do is read the best of the eight vintages tasted, we have chosen one per decade. Ah, pay attention to the different alcohol contents!

Vigna del Vassallo 1987 (Lazio table wine) Colle Picchioni

Score: 97/100
No longer on the market.

From magnum, one of the last three bottles on the estate. Valerio tells us that it was probably 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Big barrels. Light brick color, mahogany, well orange nail, slightly opaque. Very vivid and explosive nose of amazing balsamic notes, sweet tobacco, dried flowers. Very fresh, lively, savory, blood orange mouthfeel with a very long persistence. An incredible wine!
(Alcohol content 12.5 percent vol.)

Vigna del Vassallo 1995 (Lazio table wine) Colle Picchioni

Score: 95/100
No longer on the market.

First vintage without Signora Paola in the cellar and last vintage with winemaker Giorgio Grai. From magnums. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Big barrels. Dark mahogany color, garnet, slightly garnet nail. Nose black truffle, mushrooms, graphite, dark tobacco and slightly less balsamic than the previous one. Austere mouthfeel, subtle and lively tannins, iron, savory and pomegranate notes. Very elegant, very good and with much time left to live.
(Alcohol content 12.5 percent vol.)

Colle Picchioni Lazio Rosso Il Vassallo 2005 Colle Picchioni

Score: 96/100
No longer on the market.

Riccardo Cotarella winemaker. Last year without Valerio’s presence at the winery. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Large barrels and barriques. Vivid light ruby color with bright highlights. Austere nose, walnut husk, spices, plums, cinchona, slightly balsamic. Mouth very fresh, blood orange, savory, very fine tannins, elegant and very long persistence. Yet another great vintage.
(Alcohol content 13% vol)

Lazio Rosso Il Vassallo 2011 Colle Picchioni

Score: 94/100
No longer on the market.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Barrique for one year. Mahogany color, slightly garnet and transparent. Medium-expressive nose of blood orange, spice and clove. Consistent mouthfeel of blood orange, savory, fresh, coffee powder, quinotto and rhubarb. With lively tannins and good persistence.
(Alcohol content 14.5 percent vol.)

Lazio Rosso Il Vassallo 2021 Colle Picchioni

Score: 95/100
Average price in wine shop: € 23

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Barrique. Bright and vibrant ruby red. Spicy nose, smoky notes and light undertones of balsamic and floral notes. Mouth soft and warm, vanilla, of chocolate and berries; soft tannins and slight freshness to lighten and lengthen the sip.
(Alcohol content 14% vol)