TastingsVertical Tasting

Complete vertical tasting of San Leonardo (2)

by Stefania Vinciguerra
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We saw yesterday the first 10 vintages of San Leonardo, the Trentino Bordeaux of great class and finesse. Today we see the second ten, from 1995 to 2006 (1998 and 2002 were not produced).

After the first 10 vintages, with production now reaching around 50 thousand bottles, we can say that San Leonardo has become a self-conscious young man. From the 1996 vintage it abandoned its status as a table wine and acquired a denomination: Vigneti delle Dolomiti Igt. This is a path common to a great many Italian quality wines that had found their production physiognomy initially experimental outside the production specifications of DOCs and that had not yet had a legislative collocation, until the birth of Typical Geographical Indications.

Marquises Carlo and Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga
Marquises Carlo and Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga

Awareness in the vineyard

Meanwhile, in the vineyard we begin to abandon the Trentino pergola in favor of spurred cordon and Guyot, but only for Cabernet sauvignon and Merlot, since experience shows that Carmenère needs vegetation to express elegance. The percentages of the grape varieties in the blend remain essentially unchanged, with a higher proportion of Carmenère in hot vintages and Merlot in cooler ones.

In 1998, the grape harvester was bought, which facilitates improved phenolic ripening, as the speed of harvesting means that harvesting is not brought forward for fear of possible adverse weather conditions, but allows more risk.

The change of hands from Giacomo Tachis to Carlo Ferrini, consolidated in 2001, does not change the style of the wine: “San Leonardo is always him, beyond everything,” says Marquis Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga, “and the differences are always attributable to the different vintage trends.

Young Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga joins the company.

The year 2001 also marks the entry into the company of Anselmo, Carlo’s son, at first in the commercial sphere, then increasingly immersed in production and all-round business management. Not yet a passing of the baton (Marquis Carlo continues to have the last word on San Leonardo) but a shared responsibility, as shared is the love for this Trentino land and its fruits.

PRODUCER

Caporedattore di DoctorWine e giornalista professionista da trent'anni, ha iniziato la sua carriera nel mondo del vino grazie a un corso Ais, dove insegnava proprio Daniele Cernilli. Ha alternato una brillante carriera giornalistica, dirigendo testate come Pane & Vino ed Euposìa, con ruoli nelle pubbliche relazioni, anche al di fuori del settore enologico, come la responsabilità stampa e comunicazione del Giro d’Italia per La Gazzetta dello Sport. Appassionata di vino e gastronomia, è anche una degustatrice esperta.

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